Climbing For The Pros

climbing belay

What is the best climbing equipment?

I’m interested in buying my own equipment for climbing. The equipment I have been using is rental equipment and is OK, but I’d like to have my own stuff. I already know some of the things I am buying like my harness, shoes, belay device and carabiner / quickdraws. I have been climbing on indoor walls but I’m interested starting outdoor climbing as well. What kind of ropes and other equipment will I need and what types do you suggest? (I want to get the best stuff for the job, kinda interested in Trad and Sport climbing).

Buying gear is a highly preferential matter. The type of gear you need will depend on where you are climbing and what type of climbing you are doing. You really should take a training course on anchor building and trad climbing before you make the jump from the gym to the real world, unless you have experienced climbing partners to take you. The most popular brands for for most climbing hardware are probably Black Diamond and Petzl, but there are many others out there. For ropes, Petzl, Beal, Sterling, BlueWater, and others. Shoes…prana, 5.10, evolv, scarpa, mad rock, and others. All climbing equipment must be UIAA approved, but the specific type and model of each piece of equipment that is best for you will depend on many factors…

Shoes: What type of fit do you like? There are highly technical (and uncomfortable) fits and there are flatter fits, depending on your skill level and difficulty of routes. You will need to try these on no matter what to make sure they fit your feet just right, so you will need to get these at a climbing store, you can ask advice about brands and models there.

Harness: There are not that many different types of harnesses. Just look for one that has good padding for what you will be doing. If you are a casual climber and go out once a week or so, most any harness will be comfortable and work fine. If you will be doing big wall climbing where you will be hanging, you should look into a heavier more padded harness. It is mostly a compromise between style, price, weight, and comfort here.

Belay device: Most gyms use gri-gris or similar devices, because they are more “fool-proof” devices. You will most likely not want one of these outside. They are expensive, heavy, and not very versatile. The most popular belay device by far is the Black Diamond ATC or one of the variations off of it. They are less than $30 and can work for a variety of purposes including single- or double-rope belays and single- or double-line rappels. If you want to get into multipitch or alpine climbing later you may want to get the ATC guide or Petzl reverso, as they can also be used to belay directly off an anchor.

Carabiners: You should get at least on good quality pear-shaped locker for belaying. What you will need beyond that is a matter of climbing style and preference. If you are toproping, you just need enough to anchor the belayer and build a toprope anchor. If you are doing trad, you will need a lot more. If you are doing sport climbing, you will need less carabiners and more quickdraws. If you plan to do trad only, be aware that most trad climbers dont use quickdraws, but prefer to use dyneema or nylon slings (they are more versatile). Most climbing stores have a wide variety of carabiners from BD and Petzl that include oval, pear, and D-shaped, bent gate, straight gate, wire gate, locking, non-locking, etc. There is a huge variety to choose from.

Ropes: This is very dependent on what you will do. If you plan on doing any climbing in the rain, you will need a dry-treated rope. You can choose from various lengths from 50m to 70m…60m is the most popular right now I think. You will also need to decide on rope diameter. This can range from 7.5mm to 11mm. Standard ropes between 10 and 11mm are safe for mostly any purpose, but heavier. Twin and half ropes are sold in diameters of 9mm or less and must be used in pairs. You can also choose a more expensive rope that can take more falls (if you plan on leading) or a less expensive rope for toproping.

As for protection, that totally depends on what you prefer and what type of rock you are climbing. This is something you will need to figure out as you progress.

The best advice I can give is to just hook up with someone experienced to climb with and use their gear. See what you like through experience.

Cordex Plus Glove by Petzl $37.95 115049 Features: Made of high quality goat skin for the perfect balance between durability and dexterity; back is made of leather with abrasion-resistant stretch nylon at key flex areas Ergonomic cut for high dexterity without being too tight The low profile neoprene cuff with Velcro closure features a reinforced carabiner hole for attaching the gloves to your harness Specifications: Weight: 46 ou…

Petzl Spatha Knife Perhaps the most useful tool you can have in the backcountry is a utility knife. Petzl’s Spatha Knife is a lightweight, single blade, emergency knife perfect for cutting cord, webbing, and an array of materials you use in the backcountry. Designed specifically for guide climbing, the Spatha can be opened with a single hand and has a clever hole in the handle that fits a carabiner to a tee. Attach …

Petzl Standard Rope Bag $33.00 Sometimes managing your rope is a tangle of frustration, the Petzl Standard Rope Bag minimizes loop knotting on a climb, is efficient for rope storage, and protects the rope during transport. For convenience an ergonomic grab-handle and 2-inch wide, adjustable shoulder strap allow for multiple quick carrying options. Two internal tie-off loops help to keep ropes separated, and one external tie-off…

Mountain Hardwear Belay T-Shirt – Short-Sleeve – Men’s Dark Adobe, M $44.95 Climbing with your novice friend is a grand old time when you wear the Mountain Hardwear Men’s Belay T-Shirt. This stretchy tech tee wicks moisture, dries quickly, and feels super soft. Mountain Hardwear rotated the flat-lock seams away from pressure points, so you can chill comfortably while your buddy takes his time on the rock.Product FeaturesMaterial: 90% Nylon, 10% elastanePockets: NoneRecomm…

Marmot Zeus Down Jacket – Men’s $31.95 For fast-and-light climbing missions, extended backpacking trips, or backcountry ski tours, the Marmot Men?s Zeus Down Jacket gives you the warmth of a down jacket for less weight than a traditional fleece. 800-fill down insulation provides low-bulk warmth when you don?t have space in your pack for a huge down layer. A wind flap behind the zipper eliminates drafts, and the jacket packs up into its…

Marmot 8000M Down Parka – Men’s $549.00 Explore the highest, coldest places on earth with the high-loft warmth of the Marmot Men’s 8000M Parka. Created for places like the summit of Everest and the North Pole, this Marmot jacket packs 800-fill down inside a waterproof breathable MemBrain shell for the ultimate in cold weather protection. The 8000M Parka has reinforced shoulders to protect it from pack abrasion on your summit push, and h…

Petzl R40 Standard Rope Bag, Yellow $32.95 ALL CLIMBING SALES ARE FINAL. The Rope Bag by Petzl features an ergonomic handle, one shoulder strap and rope log window. Holds up to 200 feet of 1/2″ rope….

Petzl R40 Standard Rope Bag, Blue $32.95 ALL CLIMBING SALES ARE FINAL. The Rope Bag by Petzl features an ergonomic handle, one shoulder strap and rope log window. Holds up to 200 feet of 1/2″ rope….

On Belay!: The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt $1.82 Every mountaineer in the western U.S. has heard of Paul Petzoldt and his pioneering climbs and guide trips in Wyoming’s Tetons. Most know of his founding of the highly regarded National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) programs. But even those who know this “mountain original” well will find new information in this wide-ranging biography by one of Petzoldt’s former NOLS students. Ringholz r…

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills One of the first compilations of extremely pragmatic safety recommendations for mountain camping and climbing, particularly in artic conditions….