Climbing For The Pros

mammut climbing

8mm sling as a top rope climbing anchor?

I have a brand-spanking-new Mammut Dyneema Cordelette Contact Sling, 8mm. Blue, quite snazzy.

i second what cody said in general, but want to warn you about one thing.

the sling on your link is only 30 cm long. if your sling is also 30 cm, then it is not suitable for a sliding x anchor (well, perhaps it could be used if the two points are very close to each other, but it is not perfect and an anchoring point like that is rare).

when placing an anchor in two points (the most common anchor), you have to think about the v angle between the points. that angle should be the smallest possible, so that the force of the potential fall distributes itself as equally as possible. where i come from we never let the v angle get over 60 degrees, meaning each point of the anchor bears about 60% of the load or less. an angle larger than 120% will make each point take over a 100% of the load of the fall, making it more dangerous than using only one point for your anchor. NEVER allow that.

my point is, if your sling is really only 30 cm long like the one on the link, it’s very unlikely you will be able to get the proper and safe v angle in a sliding x anchor with it. so be extra careful about that. you can still use it for pre equalized anchors that consist of two or more slings if its length will fit the length you’ll need

P.S.
the 30 or 60 cm slings are usually more suitable for placing your own safety around the rock forms when you lead and the pitch is poorly bolted (we use them a lot in limestone). 80 or 120 cm slings are generally made to be used in sliding x anchors because they enable you to achieve the smallest v angle.

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